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 The pastoral cane
of amber and silver
for cardinal
Tarcisio Bertone
The pastoral cane of amber and silver designed by well known artist Mariusz Darapikowski was given on Saturday to the secretary of state of the Holy See, cardinal Tarcisio Bartone. The archbishop, Tadeusz Gacłowski has presented him with this pastoral cane at the beginning a solemn mass close to a monument of Jan Paul II on Zaspa. (p. 6)
The Fifth Avenue in colour
of raspberries and yellow plum
In the colour supplement “The Fifth Avenue” on the newspaper Rzeczpospolita, just second time we had possibility to see jewellery of polish goldsmiths. The session “Fruits of fiction land” prepared Ewa Wejnert with a help of Joanna Macur. Inventive of this project, a chief of the column of fashion, Lidia Polpiel, photographed a model, Ewelina Horosz, in jewellery of companies: Lewantowicz, 3 Treasures, Joanna I Elżbieta Macur. Nacklaces, bracelets, and rings splendidly suit gowns of Ewa Minge and Michał Starosta. We are impressed by effects and we are waiting for a next show. (p. 8)
Center of innovation in Birmingham “Silver schools” in Legnica
18th May in one of rooms in The Center of Culture in Legnica was opened an exhibition “Silver schools”. In this year were presented works of professors and students of UCE Birmimgham Institute of Art and Design School of Jewellery from Birmingham and Konstfack University College of Arts, Crafts and Design from Stockholm. (p. 26)
Jarosław Westermark
– master of polish goldsmithery
He is called by same people master of polish goldsmithery. He is famous owing his perfect work and excellent proportions and feeling for aesthetic art. His adventure with yewellery he started from simple forms during a secondary school. His first works were made form silver, until at the beginning “90 years of XX century he started using gold, platinum and stones, he likes the best. He found a lack of the polish market, clients are still searching for rarities made from expensive materials and stones. This process is reflecting in his work by 30 last years – he had right. Today he is counting among the famous and the more known polish artist – jewellers. (p. 27)
Fascinations of Nature
of Ewa Rudowska
Creation is the biggest passion of Ewa Rudowska. Several years ago she left an employment as photographic and she changed own status for an uncertain creator of jewellery. It was such different than a few people gave her chance to reach a success. Now she owing own jewellery can recover. (p. 28)
It seams good year
In Poland and Slovakia is keeping a good demand for jewellery, worst situation is in Czech Republic and Hungary, were we can observe economical crisis in this sector-such result gave 21st meeting of directors of Assay Offices from all countries of The Wyszegrad Group, which were during 23-24th May in Krumlow. (p )
Amber animal inclusion
in jewellery
Cycle of cameral amber exhibitions from Amber Collection of Warsaw of The Earth Museum PAN in Warsaw is presented during fair GOLD, SILVER, TIME as additional event called “Museums on fair”. In 2002 year we was projected long-term program presentation of all interesting problems according to actual knowledge about amber as polish raw material with special decorative valor. (p. 34)
“The Six” in Gallery Bielak
Every day each of them can realize own plan an ideas, they exhibit and take a part in concurs separately – together they received a lot of awards and individual exhibitions, and more than hundred collective, they are really good and active artists. 11 June p. a. “The Six” was all in Kraków: Bogumił Bytomski, Krzysztof Roszkiewicz, Paweł Kaczyński, Marcin Tymiński nad Arkadiusz Wolski. (p. 37)
Not only polish amber
in Las Vegas
JCK is one of the most important fair at the world, but still is lak of a good promotion of polish amber – mentioned Mariusz Gliwiński, owner company Ambermoda, who is selling own products for American market a lot of years. (p. 18)
The amber pen for Lech Wałęsa
Bogdan Oleszek, a chairman of The City Council of Gdańsk will present Lech Wałęsa with the pen from amber and silver by Ambrex. This honourable mention was granted by Paweł Adamowicz, a president of Gdańsk for promotion of city, famous as a cradle of “Saolidarnosć” and world capital of amber. (p. 4) |
An authentic Baltic sea Amber
stone on the Amberif Fair
The buyers coming on the amber fairgrounds can be certain that what they are purchasing is real Baltic Sea Amber – this assertive statement stems from the control activities of expert’s and professional representatives’ commission. Despite positive results after the controls, the commission unveiled few hindrances. Some of author’s or company’s signage on the amber statuettes was missing, what goes against the traditions, as well as against the bylaws of trade. Statuettes – not like named jewelry or labeled necklaces – are deprived of whatsoever signs. (p. 13)
Ryszard Szadziewski president of the World’s Amber Council.
Mr Szadziewski has been waved to a new counseling organization for the benefit of Gdansk City President. The rules of the council had been changed, a new board of Directors has been formed – with a new president professor Ryszard Szadziewski, an outstanding specialist of amber inclusions and lecturer at the University of Gdansk. As for today, the council gathers 15 specialists from Poland, Ukraine, Russia, Germany and Canada. (p. 16)
Flintstone digged out
Even tough a sandy flintsone fulfill all the criteria of a precious stone and becomes more and more popular as a jewelry stone, in the Swietokrzyskie region flintstones are so genuine that they can be purchased for nickels. Part of the explanation comes from the fact that it is considered as a byproduct of excavatory works, and on the other part it is a robbery product from the “Flintstones” archaeological reserve. Today, are flintstones as scarce products as in the neolithic? Is the processing of the stone as tough as at that times? Finally: has today’s flintstone popularity something to do with ancient times necessity? (p. 18)
Jewelry, from Biedermeier to
Art Déco
Poznan City’s exhibition in the National Museum halls is displaying about 270 pieces of jewelry, presenting a variety of jewelry forms which with their style call on Biedermeier, historism, secession and Art Déco. Precious items which are gathered there encompass something of a symbolic parade, patriotic, sentimental and memorial. (p. 22)
French recipes for money making
Profitable dynamics of sales in the french jewelry branch are not only explained by top quality and attractiveness of products, but also rely on the dynamictsand wits of retail store owners and jewelry distributors. They are making use of well planned marketing tools for increasing sales and gaining customer’s interest. (p. 26)
Certification of synthetic diamonds
In the general meaning, diamond is the most important of all jewels. It is real that diamond trading and diamond jewelry trading are the two most important categories listed on the exhibitions worldwide. Until not so long ago, there were no alternatives to diamonds. Recently whatsoever, synthetic jewelry crystals appeared on the market. For confidence to remain, several types of certificates have been issued over the past 10 years. Positive experience with the crystals certificates passed onto other sorts of precious stones and… onto synthetic diamond for the jewelry. (p. 34)
Translation Igor Martin
Amberif to take fives
It comes 15th anniversary of the International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones AMBERIF. It will be the show with many fives: 500 exhibitors on 5.000 sq. meters of stands and – among many other accompanying events – finals of five important contests. p. 14
The Bavarian jewel
Inhorgenta Europe 2008, one of the world’s biggest jewellery fair taking place in Munich in February showed that export from Poland could be very profitable, although unstable situation on the global market and strong zloty’s rate. However, one has to be really hard-working and originative to gain success. Among 26 Polish exhibitors there were quite a lot of designers, who show their ideas in the prestige Hall C2, and the group of amber manufacturers placed in the Hall A2. p. 17
In the labyrinth of gemstones
During the biggest fairs of minerals and jewellery in the world – the Gem Show, all vast town Tucson, Arizona becomes the huge marketplace for two weeks. They say that jointly about 15.000 companies exhibit in 50 official halls and many others local events. Even two weeks is not enough to acquaint all of offers. p. 20
Fairs are fair
In the present issue of PJ we are also describing few remaining, interesting commercial events of the European jeweller’s business, which take place at the beginning of the year. Vicenza’s show First is an event beginning the international calendar of international gold jewellry fair. Is worth to be there as the position of the Italian design on the world market is unassailable.
Also in January in Madrid took place Bisutex, the international fair of the jewellery, watches and bags and accessories. The exhibition is targeted to retail business, e.g. owners of gift shops. It’s worth to remark, that Polish jewellery becomes quite popular in Madrid.
We write about French branch events, which aren’t famed in Polish jewellery business. There are two important exhibition in Paris: Eclat de Mode at the beginning of the year and Orhopa in September. Each of them has completely different profile, other exhibitors and visitors, but together give whole view on the French market. p. 24, 26, 28
Holy business
Poles are known as people attached to religious ceremonies. So there is potentially huge market for devotional items, especially for businessman who take care of good relationships with parish administration. From the other side the tradition is limiting the demand to the seasons and conservative design. However experts say that retailer should have devotional offer available by the entire year. p. 30
To keep names in the memory
Michał Gradowski, the well-known historian of the art, popularizing the Polish goldsmithery for years, just began the action of building the database of jewellers acting in Poland after 1945. In the interview for PJ Mr Gradowski is explaining the need of such a list. p. 10
The technologically protected
quality
In the middle of the year the Polish jeweller’s market will already be able to use one of the most modern, technology-based gemmological laboratories in the world. Thanks to EU funds at the Silesian University so-called TechLabGem will be launched. There will be possible to identify even best fakes of jeweller’s stones. p. 34
Business detectives
It seems that next years will become the golden age of economic surveillance in Poland. The demand for the information is already intense and the will grow together with the market development. Business information providers are visited by almost of all – from salesmen by producers to financiers of all branches. It’s better to pay a few hundred zł otys for the detailed report, than to risk and to sink a lot of money in the contract with the uncertain company. p. 44
How to sell on the Internet
The person founding the Internet shop is not condemned to the one and only appropriate solution. It is possible to select different elements according to business model of own activity, a specificity of offered assortment, established budget and expected turnovers or many others issues. p. 38
Legnicki Exclusive
Festival 2008
The preparations for the next edition of this 30 year’s old festival have started, under the supervision of Legnica Art Gallery. Here is what organisators are planning: exhibitions, happenings and scientific sessions facilitating the exchange of opinons about metodologies and occurances in the most recent Arts as well as a showcase of the current trends in gold jewellery. p. 14
Numbered timekeepers
Although whatches from the middle shelves are the most frequently purchased items, the brand image is actually built up by models in limited edition. There seems to be few better arguments for personal prestige show off than a watch provided with serial number, the smaller number the better. p. 18
Cooperation between Gdansk City autorities and Jewellers
An exchange market for Amber and an Amber Certification Center are expected to be created, as stated in the interview with Robet Pytlos, Gdansk City President representative. The city is considering to let new grounds for Amber diggings, as well as to start with a promotion programe called “Amber’s Ambassador”. p. 20
What will 2008 bring
Most of the branch professionals think that year 2007 has been a good year for business. Economists fear that some negative economic phenomenon should occur and have an impact on the jewellery market. Thinking about the trends, it shall be an eclectic year in terms of colours, forms and factures, as well as in terms of materials. p. 22
Magic jewellery
Nomads from Kazachstan used to adorn their national clothings with jewellery, beleiving in its magic power. Today, the buying decision about a ring or bracelet is taken in regard of the fashion, not the ethnic beliefs, thus models with traditional shapes are still a top trend. p. 28
A past insight with the future
Internet potentially is a very promising sales channel for jewellery. Online shops will be the growing alternative to the largest distributors that are the main players inside shopping centers. p. 30
Be aware of new rules of law
The law for prevention of unfair market practices, which came to force by the end of last year, is intended to offer a better protection of consumer’s interest with respect to the usual standards of activity. Every entrepreneur should get familiar with this regulation, in order not to joepardize its own civil a criminal
liability. p. 32
Factoring is helping through cash management
Overdue liabilities have become a frequent occurance for many polish firms. Entrepreneurs who are dealing with the problem of uncollected cash payments are regularly handing for short term credits. Other ways do exist. p. 34
Prices of Gold expected to go up during 2008
Gold and other jewellery ore prices are likely to be rising in 2008 just like in the past year. In the first week of the new year, the gold ounce rate has registered a 20 dollar increase. A large correction is possible, price forecasts from different analists and institutions are quite diverging one from the other. p. 35
Our unrepeatable treasure
Amber is of a great singularity and secret. Amber is a great passion. That gem can do it all with the humans. It is a folly. When a human looks at Amber, all his world is attracted in it – Joanna Chmielewska – author of famous crime fiction books – is talking about his fascination for Amber. p. 42
Tucson – targi na wielką skalę
1 lutego ruszą największa na świecie impreza gemmologiczno-jubilerska – Gem Show w Tucson w amerykańskim stanie Arizona. Całe, liczące niemal milion mieszkańców miasto, zamienia się na dwa tygodnie w gigantyczną powierzchnię handlową.
popularny widok – sprzedaż ametystów i turkusu na parkingu
Na oficjalnej liście wydawcy katalogu znajduje się ok. 50 hal targowych, od tych najbardziej eleganckich (AGTA/Convention Center), po mniej reprezentacyjne (G&LW/Gem Mall). W Tucson handluje się dosłownie wszędzie – w hotelach, namiotach, na ulicy, w samochodzie… Brylanty prezentowane są tuż obok plastikowych koralików z Chin, biżuteria indiańska sąsiaduje z kolekcjami Tiffany’ego. To „hurt hurtów” – tu handluje się w naprawdę dużej skali.
Convention Center (najbardziej eleganckie miejsce targowe, mogą się tam wystawiać jedynie amerykańskie firmy zrzeszone w American Gem Trade Association) – najwyższa półka na Tucson Gem Show
Ze względu na skalę i charakter imprezy trudno o dokładne dane dotyczące liczby wystawiających się firm – mówi się że jest to kilkanaście tysięcy. Wśród nich znajduje się również grupa około dwudziestu firm polskich związanych z bursztynem.
W kontekście kryzysu w USA, trudno w tym roku przewidzieć sytuację na targach. Z drugiej strony, jest to impreza o charakterze międzynarodowym a słaby dolar może być atrakcyjny dla kupców spoza Ameryki. Jak będzie w rzeczywistości, przekonamy się już za dwa tygodnie.
To najbardziej kolorowa kolekcja zegarków Timex od lat. Barwami pasków linii Timex T Series Chronograph są: czerwony, fioletowy, biały i piaskowy. Tę damską kolekcję charakteryzują również wyraziste tarcze pokryte masą perłową – to ciekawy zabieg w zestawieniu z dynamiczną stylistyką zegarków oraz ich zaawansowanymi funkcjami. Modele wyposażono w chronograf na głównej tarczy umieszczono trzy mniejsze, wskazujące odpowiednio: minuty, sekundy oraz setne sekundy. Funkcji dopełnia indeks daty oraz podświetlenie tarczy Indiglo. Modele charakteryzuje wodoodporność klasy 10 ATM.
Te kolorowe zegarki wykonano z najwyższą starannością i z doskonałych jakościowo materiałów co sprawia, że nie są dodatkami tylko na jeden sezon. Paski stworzono ze skóry stylizowanej na krokodylą, a koperty – ze stali nierdzewnej. Ciekawostką jest data 1854 wygrawerowana na deklu przypominająca, że Timex ma już ponad 150-letnie doświadczenie w tworzeniu zegarków.
Young power arise
The number of young jewellery crafters, non-professional ones, is rapidly rising. For the majority of the handicrafts they produce, low quality materials and less sophisticated shapes are the commonplace, so much cheaper are they. Jewellery is distributed among the young societies and over the web. Part of the young craftsmen is starting to have professional trainings in design as well building up sales value. The question sounds: does it have an impact on Poland’s jewellery market, if so, is it a threat or an opportunity? p. 14
Secret Gagate – Forgotten
Quite not appropriately named the Black Amber. Even though it came out of the most carbonized, resine saturated coniferous trees – araucaria, it is still easy to differentiate from real amber. You just need to touch one end with a red hot needle to convince yourself that Amber releases a balsamic aroma whereas Agate scaters a dark coal smell. p. 21
Art Deco’s
Great
Comeback
In the 20’s and 30’s of this century, bijouterie reached artistic heavens, and jewellery became one of the most passionating subjects of shapes and adornments creation. Today the works of some former jewellers are the most priced items on auction sales. p. 18
A beam of repercuted light
If your best brand was to be a person, who shall it be? That is the most recurrent question in the psychologic techniques of brand image investigations.
A Brand without individuality, emotions or definite style – will fall flat on the market. The downright marketing measure after this shall be the accurate choice of an ambassador/dress for the brand. Let’s add it shall be a very efficient measure. Amber’s ambassadress is Lidia Popiel, Tissot’s – Ilona Felicjańska, Apart’s – Aneta Kręglicka. p. 24
Time for marketing
The Amber branch is standing on the brink of a main change of operations. Export crisis to the dollar zone, increasing number of falsifies matching closer and closer originals, large activity of Chinese firms, East European neighbours production, that marks the end of a prosperous period for the Amber jewellery market. The new situation is pressing branch operators for new actions. p. 26
Jewellery sales on the internet portal Allegro
Before the client will decide for a ring, necklace or bracelet, he or she shall wants to have a look at it personally, to touch it. But there is no shortage of clients to whom a picture and a short product description shall suffice to make an order through the internet. p. 30
Amber President
Gdansk president, Mr Paweł Adamowicz has received a special award from Polski Jubiler Magazine, on the opening day of the eight edition of Warsaw Jewelery and Top Watch Show called “Złoto Srebro Czas” (Gold Silver Time). The mayor of the Polish Amber Capital City has been honoured for his outstanding management. He has enabled the access to grounds for the purpose of amber fields exploration. Thanks to Adamowicz’s tender announcement, forages of amber will become legal for the first time since 1970. p. 4
Thirty five years of flint stone
optimism
Flint stone is not simply a rare mineral with an extraordinary history. It is a potential top promotion product for the Świętokrzyskie mountains and for all of Poland. Nevertheless, just like for any rare comodity it requires special care for excavation and smart promotion. We are contemplative of Mr Cezary Łutowicz, an artist and jewelery maker whose fascination for this rare mineral dates back to 1971, when he moved to Sandomierz city. It took him no longer than one year to manufacture his first articles and untill today,
Mr Łutowicz stays the most renouned artist in the amber craftmanship. p. 16
Grants for participation in foreign shows and events are put to an end
The last day for Polish firms to apply for grants for participating in shows abroad was the fifth of october 2007. The deadline has been published on Polish Ministry of Economy website just five days before the deadline, on monday. It is very likely that the grant scheme will be kept up next year, but for the moment being exhibitors do not have any details. p. 26
Jeweler’s security
The best protection against robbery is to hold a lower total value of articles. Insurance companies are reluctant to cover jewelery firms. There is a lack of specialy tailored insurance policy for jewelery shops on the market. p. 20
Controls on the shows
As expected on this year Polish Jewelery Show Złoto Srebro Czas, officers from the Warsaw Departement of Samples and Specimen Controls have enforced some identification procedures. The aim of the actions was to verify if articles sampled on the show were properly certified according to polish standards. The results of this year’s investigations have been better than last year results. Audited articles were specified, seal marks were readable and suitable for indentification procedures. Unfortunately, none of the audited points of sale had a table of sampling carateristics at sight. p. 28
Amber surprises
On the eight of october, the Gdansk Amber Museum enlarged his porfolio with new gifted articles: a most heavy two kilos amber stone, three pendants with inclusions and jewelery coming from the designer’s bureau S&A Amber Jewelery. p. 30
Trends in Jewelery
In the coming season, we shall be wearing everything that shines and sparkles with silver and gold. Polish designers from the leading jewelery trade channels tell that warm bronzy tones are becoming fashionable now, as well as chocolate, sandy, grenats and all greyish shades. Eveything is toned, slightly scattered, no harsh colours. p. 24
Günter Grass honored
On the days of 4-6 october, City of Gdansk has celebrated Günter Grass 80th anniversary. The Noble prize winner has received several gifts made of amber, which represent the allegory of memory in the author’s last book. p. 31
Competition “amber web”
is decided
The main prize in concourse, it means a statuette and a title “The Best Web Servis of Fair Exhibitor of Ambermart 2007” and full page addvertisment in the catalogue of fair Amberif 2008 received a portal S&A Bursztynowa Biżuteria forom Gdynia (www. s-a. pl) Members of a jury awarded a web side of Eugeniusz Salwierz Ôs workshop (www. salwierzamber. pl) and RAV form Gdańsk (www. rav. com. pl) p. 8
The new collection of W. Kruk
Silver bag, gold belt and shoes, gold plated chains, big rings, furniture, fabrics, leathers painted magic cooperŐs liquid – all this fairy world inspired Anna Orska, disagner of W. Kruk, for creating a new collection yewellery of colour metals: silvered, golded, coopered, reddish-brown, silvered-coffeeÉ.(foto W. Kruk) p. 10
Kubica faster again
This time it not means first place in Formuła 1, but struggles of an untypical competition, in which took a participation Robert Kubica, Adrian Bosshard, president of Certina nad Tomasz Kruk, barbd manger of Certina – 3rd September at seat of The Polish Olympic Committee in Warsaw. p. 19
Sandomierz as the world capital
of a belted flint
Just fifth time in Sandomierz will be goldsmithery Ôs workshops “The Belted Flint – a stone of optimism”. Additionally attraction of this yearŐs meeting is a jubilee session “35 years of The Belted Flint in Jewellery”, which will take a place of 12Th October. A participation announced is by distinguished artists who live for an art goldsmithery and willing for experiments with this rare mineral. p. 20
Patriotic jewellery
Form 2nd December in The Museum of Goldsmithery in Kazimierz Dolny we can see the exhibition of polish patriotic jewellery and moulds.
One of an attraction of this exposition is an unique ring with an inscription “The Native Country for Own Defender”, Tadeusz Kościuszko gave it instead of orders to his the bravest soliders. p. 26
How are cuff links created?
Owing to politeness Mariusz Gliwiński, owner of gallery and jewellery workshop AMBERMODA in Sopot, editorial staff can see traditional and hand made, based on well-known production process of yewellery – step by step, form raw materials to new trade product. p. 28-29
Gold Sliver Time fair
– new trends for jewellery
Gold Silver Time is the biggest autumnal meeting for jewellery brand and watchmakers, which gives possibilities to establish commercial relationships, to familiarize to the newest trends for next seasons, to see lot of special exhibitions and take a part in interesting – commercial and sociable events. During last yearŐs fairs edition – very well estimated by exhibitors and brand visitors – took a part 210 exhibitors. This year organizers expect to repeat a such success as in last year was. Undoubtedly an ally is a good economic situation and positive consumer moods not only in Poland, but in other European countries too. In exhibitors Ô offers will be dominate gold and silver jewellery decorated precious stones and amber – segment of exhibitors presenting amber is systematically growing up. There will be producers of machines and tools for jewelers, boxes, packs, special elements for exhibition and swatches. The fair Gold Silver Time enjoys interest of foreign exhibitors who want to meet trade contacts at polish market – in this year they will be form Germany, India, Denmark, Turkey, Italy, Greece, Czech Republik and Austria. t
Translated by
Małgorzata Dygas-Konopacka
Anna Golec
Autorka jest konsultantką Instytutu Badań nad Gospodarką Rynkową w Gdańsku
Powinniśmy wspólnie promować bursztyn bałtycki jako surowiec, warsztat gdański oraz gdański design, bo to nas wyróżnia w świecie – zgodnie stwierdzili uczestnicy kolejnego spotkania w ramach
inicjatywy klastrowej “Bursztynowa Delta”
Na początku spotkania przedstawiono trzy prezentacje systemów certyfikacji, które posłużyły jako punkt wyjścia do dalszej dyskusji. Kolejni referenci zaprezentowali uczestnikom system klasyfikacji win francuskich jako przykład certyfikacji produktów, system certyfikacji diamentów Source Veritas w nowojorskim komercyjnym laboratorium GCAL jako przykład certyfikacji surowca oraz szwajcarski system nadawania znaku Swiss Made jako przykład certyfikacji eksponującej miejsce pochodzenia wyrobu.
Budowa globalnej marki
Zdaniem uczestników spotkania głównym celem promocji wyrobów z bursztynu powinna być budowa globalnej marki, która przyczyni się do wzrostu znaczenia bursztynu jako kamienia. Bursztyn powinien stać się najszlachetniejszym wśród kamieni pochodzenia organicznego, co oznacza rywalizację z perłami czy koralami. Będzie to możliwe dzięki kreowaniu wizerunku bursztynu jako kamienia pięknego, fascynującego, otoczonego pewnym mistycyzmem, posiadającego wielowiekowe tradycje.
Bursztyn bałtycki, tradycja jego obróbki i oryginalne wzornictwo
sprawiają, że biżuteria z Gdańska jest rozpoznawalna na całym świecie
Należy także eksponować fakt, że zasoby bursztynu są ograniczone i w odróżnieniu od pereł czy korala człowiek nie może pobudzać procesu ich tworzenia. W działaniach promocyjnych należy także wyraźnie akcentować odmienność bursztynu bałtyckiego i wyrobów pochodzących z “Bursztynowej Delty” od innych typów bursztynu oraz innych ośrodków bursztynniczych w regionie. Promocja wyrobów z bursztynu powinna także przyczynić się do wykreowania wizerunku bursztynniczego klastra jako światowego centrum kompetencji związanych z bursztynem (wiedza o surowcu, obrót nim, umiejętności związane z jubilerstwem i obróbką bursztynu, kreowanie stylu i mody).
Made in Gdańsk
Część uczestników spotkania wyraziła pogląd, że należy skoncentrować działania promocyjne jedynie na bursztynie bałtyckim. Druga grupa jednak przypomniała, że ze względu na fakt, iż większość surowca do produkcji pochodzi obecnie zza wschodniej granicy, przy promocji bursztynu bałtyckiego nie można zapomnieć o promowaniu geograficznego pochodzenia gotowych produktów z tym kamieniem: budowania marki typu “made in Gdańsk”.
W przeciwnym razie działania promocyjne podejmowane przez “Bursztynową Deltę” przynosiłyby korzyści przede wszystkim podmiotom spoza regionu Pomorza. Uczestnicy spotkania byli zgodni co do konieczności oparcia promocji wyrobów z bursztynu na systemie certyfikacji.
Główne uwarunkowania dla systemu certyfikacji surowca,
na jakie zwrócili uwagę uczestnicy spotkania “Bursztynowa Delta”
Przyszły system certyfikacji bursztynu powinien:
- rzetelnie badać cechy fizyko-chemiczne bursztynu,
- wprowadzać klasy/ kategorie badanych przedmiotów,
m być postrzegany jako wiarygodny dzięki kompetencjom zatrudnianych ekspertów, ich niezależności od systemu obrotu oraz wyposażeniu w nowoczesny sprzęt,
- być komplementarny z innymi działaniami podejmowanymi przez klaster na rzecz promocji wizerunku klastra i jego wyrobów,
- być funkcjonalny, a zatem sprawny i łatwy w stosowaniu,
m być ogólnodostępny,
- być przejrzysty pod względem procedur i zrozumiały dla klientów ostatecznych,
- zostać spopularyzowany wśród klientów,
- stać się wiodącym standardem oceny bursztynu na świecie (zgodność z kryteriami CIBJO).
Mikro-chipy jako pomysł
na identyfikację bursztynu
Innowacyjnym i entuzjastycznie przyjętym przez uczestników spotkania pomysłem, zasygnalizowanym przez dr. inż. Leszka Wicikowskiego z Katedry Fizyki Ciała Stałego Politechniki Gdańskiej była propozycja wykorzystania nowoczesnych mikro-chipów dla ułatwienia identyfikacji kamieni poddawanych certyfikacji, w tym również bursztynu. Jeśli idea ta spotka się z równie pozytywnym przyjęciem ze strony innych przedsiębiorców z branży bursztynniczej, to ta nowoczesna technologia będzie przedmiotem dalszych rozważań.
Kto i jak ma certyfikować bursztyn?
Dyskusję wywołała kwestia kształtu i zakresu zadań jednostki zajmującej się certyfikacją. Część uczestników wyrażała przekonanie, że przy Politechnice Gdańskiej powinno zostać utworzone laboratorium gemmologiczne ze szczególną specjalizacją w kierunku bursztynu. Alternatywnym pomysłem zgłoszonym podczas spotkania jest utworzenie interdyscyplinarnego centrum badań nad bursztynem, skupiającego przedstawicieli różnych nauk, które poza samą certyfikacją, zajmowałoby się także badaniami bursztynu w takich dziedzinach, jak fizyka, chemia, biologia, historia, monitorowaniem trendów w zakresie obróbki i fałszowania bursztynu na rynku oraz propagowaniem wiedzy o bursztynie.
Jak segmentować rynek odbiorców wyrobów z bursztynem?
Uczestnicy spotkania żywo dyskutowali na temat segmentacji rynku odbiorców wyrobów z bursztynem. Wyróżniono kilka podstawowych segmentów. Pierwszy z nich to segment ekskluzywny (wyroby unikatowe na bardzo wysokim poziome cenowym, skierowane do najzamożniejszych odbiorców, najwyższej klasy design, wykonanie i surowce). Następnie uczestnicy wskazali na segment luksusowy (wyroby powtarzalne w krótkich seriach, skierowane do bogatych odbiorców na bardzo wysokim poziomie cenowym, atrakcyjny design, wysokie parametry jakościowe surowca i wykonania). Za kolejną grupę odbiorców uznano segment wysoki (wyroby powtarzalne o dobrych parametrach jakościowych surowca i wykonania oraz ciekawym wzornictwie, skierowane do osób, które cenią jakość i mogą pozwolić sobie na większy wydatek przy zakupie biżuterii).
Następnie wyróżniono segment średni (wyroby masowe, funkcjonalne, o nieco gorszych parametrach surowca, skierowane do osób szukających produktu pośredniego między niską ceną a wysoką jakością) oraz segment ekonomiczny (wyroby masowe, skierowane do osób, które przy zakupie kierować się będą przede wszystkim niską ceną produktu). Typ i forma działań promocyjnych skierowanych do poszczególnych segmentów będzie przedmiotem dalszych prac grupy roboczej ds. promocji i certyfikacji bursztynu.
Tekst powstał na podstawie relacji ze spotkania grupy roboczej nr 1 ds. promocji i certyfikacji w ramach inicjatywy klastrowej “Bursztynowa Delta” w dniu 20 lipca 2007 roku w Instytucie Badań nad Gospodarką Rynkową.
Zakończono już fazę zgłaszania nominacji zegarków do prestiżowego międzynarodowego konkursu “The Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix 2007”. Ten jeden z najbardziej prestiżowych konkursów w świecie zegarmistrzów zostanie rozstrzygnięty pod koniec listopada podczas wystawy nominowanych zegarków w Genewie.
Nagrody zostaną przyznane w dziesięciu kategoriach: “Golden Hand” Grand Prix Prize, “Special Jury Prize”, “Ladie’s Watch Prize” (najlepszy zegarek damski), “Men’s Watch Prize” (najlepszy zegarek męski), “Design Watch Prize” (najlepsze wzornictwo zegarka), “Jewellery Watch Prize” (najlepszy zegarek biżuteryjny), “Complicated Watch Prize” (najlepszy zegarek mechaniczny), “Sports Watch Prize” (najlepszy zegarek sportowy), “Electronic Watch Prize” (najlepszy zegarek elektroniczny) oraz “Public Prize” (nagroda publiczności). Fotografie i opisy nominowanych zegarków można obejrzeć na stronie www.worldtempus.com. Na tej stronie można także wziąć udział w wyborze zegarka, który otrzyma Nagrodę Publiczności. W pozostałych kategoriach nagrody przyzna międzynarodowe jury. cp
The president Adamowicz is promoting the amber
It was exceptional July for the amber owing to a work of Paweł Adamowicz, the president of Gdańsk. At he bigining, 2nd July in the Museum of amber had awarded Lech Wałęsa the pen Amber Rex for a city promotion, several days later was signed an order regarding to lease a propert communal for needs of recognition of amber deposit. 26th of July, during of concert “the Freedom Space” was awared Rod Steward. (p. 4)
Trylovi – diamonds for a range
of human dreams and possibilities
The company Yes Biżuteria from Poznań is introducing for polish market the new brand of jewellery including
diamonds – Trylovia, which will be accessible only in a rate of Yes jewellery shops. Ring, pendant,
earrings of an universal design from white and yellow gold create style and timeless eternity. Simples are preferring with stones of big parameters range: from 0,08 to 1,5 carats, all clarity and colour. Owing to those
possibilities, each client can compose own set of diamonds jewellery of brand TRYLOVI, to meets own needs and dreams. (p. 16)
The royal pen from amber
Pens Amber Rex made from silver and amber by Ryszard Wycichowski were awarded Lech Wałęsa and The Museum of Amber in Gdańsk. The prototype of a such pen was honoured during the fair Amberif 2007 in the com-petition “Mercurius Gedansensis” in a category of a mastery for a precision of the work. The author made this pen from silver and amber. At present it is for two versions: from natural white amber and dark clear cherry amber. They are decorated 27 small selected, matches and exactly polished amber slabs setting in silver. Setting each stone refers to tops of old leather – bound books. Those pens are decorated polish royal designations: at the screw-top – a carefully made crown and a clip with a picture of the sceptre at the other side the royal apple. (p. 21)
The cupola of the tabernacle
16th of July p.a. in Gdańsk at the ArtusŐs Manor was passed a decorated tabernacle to Izydor Matuszewski,
a general of a monastic order
of PaulinŐs and Bogdan Waliczkow for a monastery at The Jasna Góra. This artwork was made by Mariusz Drapikowski, goldsmith and ambre craftsman from Gdańsk and sponsor was a polish company, SKOKI. The cupola has a modern form “tempietto” – small temple at a plan of a circle, the cupola is made from ebony, silver and gold. In the center we can see seven scenes of The GodŐs Mother life. An inspiration for Mariusz Drapikowski were: unrealized project of Michał Anioł an antic tabernacles from Italian churches. Among them from The Basilica of Sant Peter in Vatican and Kościół Mariacki from Kraków. (p. 24)
Amber and astronomy
in Frombork
The subject of a competition “Amber and Astronomy”, but what do amber and astronomy have a lot in common? – it will be other means in case “amber and jewellery”, or “steel and metallurgy” – was created based on “canon zen: question” without one answer and having to lead to unity with its spirit. A special acknowledgement received a small, inconspicuous ring consisting of exactly sculptured a tube from one pice of amber setting in a simple geometrical gold form. Thinking of this, we can wear this ring and see a starry sky owing to this small amber tube with all history in a nature and culture we can as reach connotations such we can expect for a distinguished artwork. An author of this artwork is Philipe Sajet, who was awarded a main prize. (p. 26)
Translation:
Małgorzata Dygas-Konopacka
The pastoral cane
of amber and silver
for cardinal
Tarcisio Bertone
The pastoral cane of amber and silver designed by well known artist Mariusz Darapikowski was given on Saturday to the secretary of state of the Holy See, cardinal Tarcisio Bartone. The archbishop, Tadeusz Gacłowski has presented him with this pastoral cane at the beginning a solemn mass close to a monument of Jan Paul II on Zaspa. (p. 6)
The Fifth Avenue in colour
of raspberries and yellow plum
In the colour supplement “The Fifth Avenue” on the newspaper Rzeczpospolita, just second time we had possibility to see jewellery of polish goldsmiths. The session “Fruits of fiction land” prepared Ewa Wejnert with a help of Joanna Macur. Inventive of this project, a chief of the column of fashion, Lidia Polpiel, photographed a model, Ewelina Horosz, in jewellery of companies: Lewantowicz, 3 Treasures, Joanna I Elżbieta Macur. Nacklaces, bracelets, and rings splendidly suit gowns of Ewa Minge and Michał Starosta. We are impressed by effects and we are waiting for a next show. (p. 8)
Center of innovation in Birmingham “Silver schools” in Legnica
18th May in one of rooms in The Center of Culture in Legnica was opened an exhibition “Silver schools”. In this year were presented works of professors and students of UCE Birmimgham Institute of Art and Design School of Jewellery from Birmingham and Konstfack University College of Arts, Crafts and Design from Stockholm. (p. 26)
Jarosław Westermark
– master of polish goldsmithery
He is called by same people master of polish goldsmithery. He is famous owing his perfect work and excellent proportions and feeling for aesthetic art. His adventure with yewellery he started from simple forms during a secondary school. His first works were made form silver, until at the beginning “90 years of XX century he started using gold, platinum and stones, he likes the best. He found a lack of the polish market, clients are still searching for rarities made from expensive materials and stones. This process is reflecting in his work by 30 last years – he had right. Today he is counting among the famous and the more known polish artist – jewellers. (p. 27)
Fascinations of Nature
of Ewa Rudowska
Creation is the biggest passion of Ewa Rudowska. Several years ago she left an employment as photographic and she changed own status for an uncertain creator of jewellery. It was such different than a few people gave her chance to reach a success. Now she owing own jewellery can recover. (p. 28)
It seams good year
In Poland and Slovakia is keeping a good demand for jewellery, worst situation is in Czech Republic and Hungary, were we can observe economical crisis in this sector-such result gave 21st meeting of directors of Assay Offices from all countries of The Wyszegrad Group, which were during 23-24th May in Krumlow. (p )
Amber animal inclusion
in jewellery
Cycle of cameral amber exhibitions from Amber Collection of Warsaw of The Earth Museum PAN in Warsaw is presented during fair GOLD, SILVER, TIME as additional event called “Museums on fair”. In 2002 year we was projected long-term program presentation of all interesting problems according to actual knowledge about amber as polish raw material with special decorative valor. (p. 34)
“The Six” in Gallery Bielak
Every day each of them can realize own plan an ideas, they exhibit and take a part in concurs separately – together they received a lot of awards and individual exhibitions, and more than hundred collective, they are really good and active artists. 11 June p. a. “The Six” was all in Kraków: Bogumił Bytomski, Krzysztof Roszkiewicz, Paweł Kaczyński, Marcin Tymiński nad Arkadiusz Wolski. (p. 37)
Not only polish amber
in Las Vegas
JCK is one of the most important fair at the world, but still is lak of a good promotion of polish amber – mentioned Mariusz Gliwiński, owner company Ambermoda, who is selling own products for American market a lot of years. (p. 18)
The amber pen for Lech Wałęsa
Bogdan Oleszek, a chairman of The City Council of Gdańsk will present Lech Wałęsa with the pen from amber and silver by Ambrex. This honourable mention was granted by Paweł Adamowicz, a president of Gdańsk for promotion of city, famous as a cradle of “Saolidarnosć” and world capital of amber. (p. 4)
The amber in The Fifth Avenue.
In April, in the colour supplement “The Fifth Avenue” on the newspaper Rzeczpospolita regarding to fashion were presented the most beautiful amber of companies: Helena form Sopot, Grzegorz and Eugeniusz Rutkowski, Kar-Gold and Tomas, Magdalena Stajszczak form Warsaw. This sessions “The AmberÉ..warm to the touch” was inspired by Ewa Wienert, instead all models wearing amber jewellery were photographed by Prot Jaruszkiewicz. In a selection of jewellery for this session helped Wanda Gontarska nad Joanna Bijok, organizers of a fair “Gold, Sliver, Time” in Warsaw. We congratulate Lidia Popiel, the chief of the column of fashion, such good idea and we are waiting for a new inspiration.
Biennale of Amber in Frombork,
1st July p.a. will beginning in Frombork I International Biennale of Amber called “Amber and Astronomy 2007”. The main event of this show will be concurs, which will be promoted amber as natural raw specific for polish coast and Frombork as a membership place for amber processing of polish tradition. p.14
200 editions,
With all my heart and on behalf of all organizations leading by me, I whish all the best for editor and publisher on the publication of 50 edition yours periodical. With impatience I will be waiting for 200 edition of “Polski Jubiler”, when together we will organizer special event, not smaller than for on 750 anniversary establishing city Kraków. It is not possible mention all, who are building and creating each edition of “Polski Jubiler”, such as journalists as people working for jewellery, and we on this occasion inclineour heads and say “than you” and “cheapeau bas”! p. 16
Ukraine is waiting for Polish,
During last six years the production of jewellery on Ukraina grown up for, 6 to 53 tonnes by year. Ukrainians more and more buy and wear jewellery and treated it as good investments – mentioned Siergiej Makacarija, v-ce minister of finance of Ukraine, during opening fair Juvelir Expo in Kijów. More than 20 000 visitors visited during 10-13 May p.a. XIII International Fair Juvalier Expo Ukraine 2007 in Kijów. During this edition own product presented more than 250 companies from 7 countries, among them: Russia, Turkey, Italy, India, Belgium. p.20-21
Luxurious Basel,
The protection of a property intellectual and author law and observe honest trade are important condition for take a part in fair BASEL WORLD. All exhibitor can lodge a complaint against company copping his models, and the accused must be controlled by special commission. The sanction is for one year prohibition to participate in fair, in case repeated situation is excluding such company from fair. p. 22-24
The etnoavant-garde from
Kazakhstan, splendour
and simplicity,
In the most nomadic existence and culture, the jewellery was part of national costume.
For this tradition in own collections establishing designer from Kazakhstan, Uliya Moldagaliyeva, author of statuette, main award in concurs Aru 2007 in Alamty.
The maximal theatrical is main feature of Uliya Moldagaliyeva artwork, graduate in ASP and member of The Kazakhstan Artists Association. She in a surprising way is connecting different materials and metals with new simplicity and splendour of Kazakhstan baroque. p 26.
The silver race,
or The Silver Festival 2007
in Legnica,
During 18-19 May p.a. were a culmination of The Silver Festival, organized by Gallery of Art in Legnica. In this year all events were on “The Absolute Beauty”. The Grand Prix, 10 000 PLN and 1 kg of sliver regarded Stefan Hausner from Germany. The concurs regarding to a reflection for a beauty category in the world and contemporary art. The exhibition was presenting selected by international jury answers for questions regarding to a beauty. For this concurs were reported 308 artwork of 181 artists from 28 countries. These artworks were form Europe and USA, Japan, China, Taiwan, Egypt. p. 28-29
Translations
Małgorzata Dygas – Konopacka
Polacy coraz chętniej kupują biżuterię. Specjaliści twierdzą, że nadchodzi dobra koniunktura na rynku wyrobów jubilerskich. Musimy tylko nadal rozwijać oryginalne wzornictwo i konsekwentnie być fair, nie tylko w stosunku do swoich klientów, ale także wobec samych siebie
W dniu10 maja odbyło się spotkanie konsultantów gdańskich targów Amberif. Zgodnie uznano, że tegoroczna edycja była najbardziej udana pod względem handlowym i promocyjnym w historii tej największej na świecie imprezy bursztynniczej. Konsultanci zalecili zarządowi Międzynarodowych Targów Gdańskich dalsze zaostrzenie regulaminu w zakresie eliminowania firm, które podczas targów obracają imitacjami bursztynu lub niewłaściwie oznaczają wyroby, a także kopiują wzory innych. Na tym przykładzie widać dobrze, że konsekwentne dbanie o przestrzeganie zasad fair play podczas targów w Gdańsku przynosi wymierne korzyści: wystawcy coraz śmielej inwestują we wzornictwo i ekspozycję swoich kolekcji, a kupcy zyskują z roku na rok coraz większą pewność co do autentyczności kupionych na Amberifie wyrobów. Podobne mechanizmy musimy wprowadzać nie tylko w bursztynowym sektorze naszego rynku. Jeżeli klienci będą mieli pewność, że nie zostaną wprowadzeni w błąd w naszych sklepach, to chętniej będą w nich kupować. Przykłady sieci firm Apart, W. Kruk czy Yes pokazują, że w dłuższej perspektywie takie podejście się opłaca. Bierzmy przykład z Poznaniaków, ufając, że prędzej czy później dobry pieniądz wyprze gorszy.
Duk rekomenduje
Sławomir Fijałkowski konsekwentnie umiędzynaradawia konkurs w Legnicy. Jednocześnie co roku
jako artysta – bez prawa do ubiegania się o laury
– wypowiada się na konkursowy temat. W tym roku spodobały mi się jego zwykłe odpustowe obwarzanki z jednym niezwykłym z białego bursztynu.
To się nazywa piękno absolutne.
Rekomenduję! t
Fakty i plotki
zdaniem Duka
Festiwal Srebra to prawdziwe święto artystycznego wzornictwa. Chwała organizatorom i Sławomirowi Fijałkowskiemu, że tak umiędzynarodowili legnicki konkurs sztuki złotniczej, że w tym roku nadesłano prace nawet z Kolumbii, czy Tajlandii. W Legnicy w ten jeden majowy weekend powinniśmy mieć możliwość spotkania z niemal wszystkimi polskimi twórcami form złotniczych. Niestety, obecnie to marzenie ściętej głowy. Jeżeli my sami nie przywiązujemy wagi do legnickiego festiwalu, to nie oczekujmy tego od innych, a przede wszystkim nie narzekajmy, że nikt nie promuje polskiego wzornictwa.
Jest realna szansa, żeby na Akademii Sztuk Pięknych w Gdańsku powstała pracownia biżuterii. Wszystko w rękach kilku znanych w środowisku osób, a przede wszystkim Rektora tej znamienitej uczelni. Jego Magnificencjo, to absurd, żeby trójmiejscy bursztynnicy jeździli na nauki rzemiosła do Łodzi. Światowa Stolica Bursztynu musi posiadać uczelnię, na której artyści będą uczyć się projektować i wykonywać oryginalną biżuterię artystyczną.
Zapraszamy
do współredagowania
tej rubryki
e-mail: zdaniemduka@pws-promedia.pl
KOMENTARZ
MIESIĄCA
Prokuratora umorzyła śledztwo w sprawie ubiegłorocznego konkursu. “SkandalŇ. Mimo to Ministerstwo Kultury i Dziedzictwa Narodowego oraz kombinat KGHM nie wsparły w tym roku legnickiego konkursu. Jest tajemnicą poliszynela, że w Legnicy rosną jak grzyby po deszczu organizacje, które w nazwie mają słowo katolickie. Podobno to gwarancja uzyskania wsparcia z budżetu miejscowego potentata. Mam nadzieję, że zarząd kombinatu pomyśli też o doczesnych interesach firmy, takich jak choćby promocja wzornictwa biżuterii artystycznej ze srebra, w Polsce i na świecie.
19 maja poznaliśmy w Legnicy laureatów 16. Międzynarodowego Konkursu Sztuki Złotniczej „Piękno absolutne”. Nagrodę Polskiego Jubilera zdobyła Adriana Lisowska za pracę „Zawiła tajemnica piękna”, wykonaną z posrebrzanego mosiądzu i sznurka. Uznaliśmy, że artystka trafnie zobrazowała znaczenie piękna w życiu i sztuce współczesnej
O tym, jak powstafa praca i czym dla artysty jest piękno z Adriana Lisowską rozmawia Honorata Szczypek
Czym jest dla Pani piękno?
W zależności od tego, jak człowiek jest ukształtowany, tak postrzega świat. Przez wieki powstawały rozmaite definicje piękna i według mnie jest to zatrzymanie się w pół drogi, a niektórzy odkrywają piękno w sobie, w świecie. Jest to ich własna kategoria, stworzona przez nich dla siebie. Ja tak odkryłam znaczenie piękna – sama musiałam je nie tylko dostrzec, ale zrozumieć i doświadczyć.
Skąd pomysł na pracę?
Bardzo długo nie mogłam odnaleźć wytłumaczenia, czym jest dla mnie piękno absolutne i co właściwie oznacza. Dążenie do wytłumaczenia tego zagadnienia nasunęło mi następującą koncepcję: człowiek poświęca życie na szukanie czegoś, co tak naprawdę nie istnieje. Jeszcze nigdy nie miałam tak dużego problemu ze zrozumieniem na pozór prostego tematu. Szukając wytłumaczeniai inspiracji, zmęczyłam się psychiczne, co zostało wyrażone w tytule pracy.
Dlaczego w swojej pracy użyła pani sznurka?
Sznurek stał się symbolem zawiłości, którego długość i żmudne nawijanie oraz rozwijanie pozwala odkrywać kolejne tajemnice życia. Użyta czerwień wyraża żywotność, energię, krew, dynamikę i miłość. Korzystając z prostej formy, wyraziłam ideę wrzeciona. Jako ciekawostkę mogę powiedzieć, że na pręciku jest napis: „niektórzy boją się nowych doznań, boją się szukać prawdy i ją odkrywać, dlaczego…?”
Kim jest Adriana Lisowska?Laureatka Nagrody Polskiego Jubilera mieszka i pracuje. W 2004 roku ukończyła Łódzką Akademię Sztuk Pięknych. Zdobyta Grand Prix Elek-tronos 2001 I 2004 podczas gdańskich targów Amberif. Uczestniczyła w kilkudziesięciu wystawach i konkursach, m.in. „Natural Mystic” Elek-tronos 2007 w Gdańsku, 2007; Ucieczka, Rynek Sztuki – Galeria Młodych Talentów w Łodzi (2007), wystawa indywidualna w Piano Cafe w Łodzi (2006), ekspozycja „Współczesna polska sztuka Design Młodych 2005 w Instytucie Wzornictwa Przemysłowego w Warszawie (2005), Śląskie Lato w Toskanii we Florencji (2005); wystawie „Polen viser frem w Danii (2004); w 13. Międzynarodowym Konkursie Sztuki Złotniczej „Short Message Silver” w Legnicy (2004); wystawie polskich projektantów podczas targów Inhorgenta europe w Monachium (2004), Instalacja, wystawie indywidualnej w Forum Fabricum w Łodzi (2001)
